Panasonic Toughbook Serial and Model Number Breakdown! How to locate the serial number, and how to locate the model number made easy. Bob Johnson's Computer Stuff, Inc. Specializes in Panasonic. This Toughbook tutorial will explain the Toughbook model number breakdown, and Toughbook serial number breakdown. It gives you 5 simple. Panasonic will not use information collected here for marketing or promotional purposes beyond the scope of this. TOUGHBOOK 31. Sheet displays what each character in the Toughbook model stands for as well as the Serial Number. Toughbook Model/Mark Breakdown. A Panasonic Toughbook. 4 XGA High Bright Touchscreen / backlit keyboard. Latest revision of the Model/Mark Breakdown. Roughly every year each Toughbook model is either revved to the latest Intel Chipset, GPU, WWAN card, WLAN card, etc. In most cases, these changes do NOT change the first 5 characters of the model number. The forst 5, CF-19, CF-31, CF-53, normally do not change for up to 5 years. Panasonic toughbook serial number breakdown.
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Driver fighter product key free. Step-by-step guide how to replace 2.0 FSI / TFSI chain between camshafts, tensioner and hpfp follower. MORE INFORMATION BELOW Use English subtitles for more information.
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Well I'll design a really **** car, full of time bombs, offer you a 15 year warranty and honor none of it! Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk Bit of an over-reaction? It's across the board with VAG cars and it seems to depend on various factors. Loads of cars driving without issue. Indeed, it looks like the early BZB engined 1.8's don't seem to suffer with this as no-one's come forward with one going bang yet, touch wood. They have a different oil system but still use the v.1 tensioner that people have had problems with. Bit of an over-reaction?
It's across the board with VAG cars and it seems to depend on various factors. Loads of cars driving without issue. Indeed, it looks like the early BZB engined 1.8's don't seem to suffer with this as no-one's come forward with one going bang yet, touch wood.
They have a different oil system but still use the v.1 tensioner that people have had problems with.It's the reaction of skuk to repairing a part broken during the warranty period due to defective design. The warranty clauses that component part suppliers have to sign up to in order to win the projects pretty much place exactly that responsibility upon them. If your part fails during the warranty period through no fault or misuse of the owner then you are liable for the replacement cost.
I was involved in a service recall on the jag XF a few years ago, that almost went to litigation, so I've got a few warranty scars. No part supplier would ever divest their responsibility by claiming some rubbish about inherent design flaws, in fact they'd slaughter you for making such a naive admission.
Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk. 2011 1.8TSI Mk2 Octavia Scout I had my engine replaced but didn't dig into it to find out what engine it was replaced with. Now developed a new issue (see post entitled 'Engine Flutter/Judder') and I'm starting to worry that I should be on this thread not my 'Flutter/Judder' thread! I notice there are engine codes at the beginning of this thread. Can anyone tell me if these codes are marked on the engine somewhere?
(as my logbook will show the code for the original engine, I presume?) Many Thanks. 'NEW TURBO'!!!! Parts are ordered through dealer, so they get 2 year warranty. Got a few pics how the kit looks, (hope not wrong ones): Complete kit is around 220 Euro, no labour charge as I maintain and help them with their IT Network when needed. Otherwise there have been no TSI failures cause of tensioner on around 50 Skoda/Audi 1.8/2.0 Petrols that have been sold by them since 2008 when VW opened officially here, sure diesel Octavia Taxis are the bulk of the rest Since my Scout is remapped and moded, he suggested best way to get covered would be to change Tensioner and not worry about engine failure after that. Edited 31 March, 2016 by CEPi. 2012 is the year the tensioner detail design finally went stable I believe so the date of manufacture on the engine is the critical info.
Take a look at the washer bottle/brake resevoir end of the engine block, should hopefully still be a paper label that tells you what the date of manufacture was for the engine unit. IIRC a date later than May 2012 gives you the possibility it has the latest tensioner. The later in 2012 the higher the degree of confidence should be. Mine is January 2012 so it 'should' have the version before the latest, but not the VERY latest. If you look at the beginning of this thread there are relatively few instances of 2012 reg failures, but not entirely free of them.